On The Borders at Valentine Autumn/Winter 2015-16

Knit sweaters, tapered trousers and colorblock print was the aesthetic of choice for Valentino in their autumn/winter 2015-16 collection. An understated interpretation of the “Swinging 60s” in London, with the parallel Beat Generation of San Francisco, the noted Italian fashion house offers a collection that is casual, yet mindfully crafted.

Intricate, embroidered designs were used on the two most distinguished jackets of the show. The jacket in blue with black leather sleeves was embroidered with black butterflies, while the jet black piece was decorated with planets. Though the choice was risky, it paid off, with the designs coming off as playful rather than kitschy.

The geometrical colorblock print was provided by Australian painter Estelle Stewart. Having been contacted by the house in a serendipitous online review, Stewart was pleased to work with the label. “The design and production team at Valentino have exceptional design skills and superb craftsmanship,” she said in a recent interview with ABC-Ballarat. “As a painter it was fantastic to see my works transformed in that context, to see how the painted image translated when given texture and form.”

The understated color choices such as black, burgundy, navy, and gray was a smart decision on Valentino’s part, for had the colors been pastel, it would have been overwhelming, and seemingly derivative of the eras mentioned earlier. Instead, we have a well-balanced and wearable collection for next year’s winter season.