Death Becomes Her at Thom Browne Autumn/Winter 2015

One of America’s most creative and imaginative fashion designers, with each subsequent season the designer’s highly thematic creations continue to baffle and delight audiences. For autumn/winter 2015 Thom Browne's collection was a continuation of the poetic, gothic resplendence displayed at his menswear show the previous month. An array of mournful but immaculate black widows in a presentation that achieved a perfect balance between theatrical designs that make his creations so distinct and dramatic wearable pieces.

A master of spectacle and stagecraft, the designer’s shows are characterised by a rich sense of narrative and theatrical flair. This season's presentation took place in a custom built reconstruction of a 19th Century Victorian operating theatre, with the story of three girls dying from broken hearts who, unable to be saved by surgeons, turn into angels and ascend to heaven. With this morbid back-story the presentation unfolded in sumptuous fashion. The color palette was deep and monochromatic; this was not a black that swallowed details, rather the rich mix of textures glosses and mattes, the detailed embroidery and sharply tailored ensembles rich with trim, made the garments come alive with complexity and originality. Eye-catching headpieces and intricate veils by the milliner Stephen Jones masterfully communicated the sombre atmosphere by adding another layer of drama and cohesion to the show. A sartorial extravaganza in arguably one of Thom Browne's strongest shows to date, as well as an undisputed highlight of New York Fashion Week.