The Functional Darkness: Boris Bidjan Paris Menswear Collection Autumn/Winter 2014-15

Barcelona based Boris Bidjan Saberi is a cult figure in men’s fashion design, whose universe is shaped by a diverse range of influences. His garments mix the codes and construction methodology of streetwear with a dark atmosphere and silhouette alongside sartorial inspirations from Bedouin and Middle Eastern cultures—these disparate references are united by his distinctly avant garde voice. The brand never strays into the ephemeral, but maintains a rigorous sense of functionality and wearability with a keen eye to structure and detailing. Like Rick Owens, he has built a brand that speaks directly to a younger street consciousness, and to the fashion savvy male.

Recent seasons have seen the sometimes maximal, urban/futuristic warrior vibe of Saberi’s work been pared back. His newer seasons reflect a more streamlined and structured vision. The Paris Menswear Collection for Autumn/Winter 2014-15, inspired by his reflections on the Ottoman Empire, followed this trajectory with a visceral yet graceful depiction of the functional urban traveller.

Working with a limited color palette of black, white and grey, the collection was characterized by forms cut close to the body and a juxtaposition of long clean lines and rougher knit fabrics mixed with sleek leathers. Jackets were cut jagged with asymmetrical lapels and blazers and button up shirts displayed a typical Saberi affectation—a pseudo glove with a thumbhole that he has repeated through multiple seasons. A white piping detail on many garments worked to subvert the overt feeling of minimalism and also highlighted the elaborate construction and cutting, particularly around the collar and shoulders. A shawl/poncho in cashmere and wool that appeared on many outfits added mystery and softness to the structured pieces beneath. Saberi’s diffusion line “11” made an appearance with the boxy oversized backpack perfectly suited to store the strange devices needed by this mysterious traveller. An excellent collection that typifies Saberi’s ability to create clothing that is at once avant garde and street ready.