Angela Missoni talks new perspectives on knitwear for A/W 2014-15

It’s hard to believe that 85 percent of the material seen on Missoni’s Autumn/Winter 2014-15 runway was knitted. After extensive research into the production process, wool was boiled, double-faced, furred and curled to create an array of ambiguous yet luxurious finishes that are sure to challenge preconceptions of this stalwart old-world material.

Knits emerged in all thicknesses, some weaves chunky and open, while tank dresses appeared intarsiad using numerous strands of different ribs. Tweed skirts layered over thick leggings were coordinated with fitted jackets and bomber cardigans, while one intriguing knit dress appeared with a removable frontal square swatch. Meanwhile, a loose cargo pant jacquard suit with a matching jacket sported sporadic embellishments with plastic shapes. All of which, while diverse, were united in bringing an incredibly contemporary feel to this old fabric.

Masculine overcoats and parkas teamed with feminine knit tops and casually wrapped jersey skirts—slit to reveal knee-high socks or stockings—to achieve an endearing balance, while feminine fluffy pullover hoodies, outer vests, sailor coats and loose jogging pants added a sense of comfortable sportiness to the mix.

Irregular tessellated prints created flat patchwork patterns, while the signature Missoni zigzags featured heavily both on surfaces and in stitching—and especially as patterns on the larger coats. But arguably the most exciting coat detail was the intense attention given to lining and hems, which positively exploded with color. Bright orange and yellow cut through a ’70s palette of coffee and tan, while turquoise and cerulean blue jazzed up greys and olive greens. Not only was the contrast refreshing, it also enhanced the cut and shape of the clothing on display.

Topped with hunting hats and finished with ostrich leather booties—then accessorized with leather gloves and multi-pouch bum bags—the Missoni woman is definitely ready for an urban winter in this relaxed and wearable collection.